The most romantic day in Paris: a one-day itinerary through Montmartre and the city's hidden passages
Updated: Jul 24
As a local, here's how I would spend a day in Paris if you're looking for the city's most charming side: cobblestone streets in Montmartre, glass-roofed passages from the 19th century, and eating in spot locals actually love. This itinerary works especially well if you've booked my self-guided food tour, since two of its four venues fall right along the way. If not, I'd still definitely recommend you to try it! I've tested it before writing this article, and I had such a great time!
MORNING: FALLING IN LOVE WITH MONTMARTRE
Start your day early, around 9am, especially if you're visiting in summer. Montmartre fills up fast, and it's a much nicer place to be when the streets are still quiet. Don't be afraid to wander off track here, that's exactly how I stumble on the best little corners.
Start : Lamarck-Caulaincourt metro station
Because there's a good amount of walking today, to avoid trudging up the hill, start at the top of Montmartre, and make your way down toward Place du Tertre and the Sacré-Coeur.
Villa Léandre View from Café Marcelle
If you'd like a coffee before you get going, I love Café Marcelle, right by Villa Léandre, which is worth a look on its own. This quiet cobbled cul-de-sac was built in the 1920s on the site of an old windmill, and its brick, English-style houses (named after the painter Charles Léandre) feel more like a village in the English countryside than central Paris.
These charming little houses sit in one of the calmest corners of Montmartre. To me, this is a much nicer, and more local, way to start the morning than grabbing a coffee on Place du Tertre, which is usually packed and feels very touristy. And the croissants at Café Marcelle are excellent: buttery and perfectly flaky!
From there, walk along Rue de l'Abreuvoir to see the famous Maison Rose. Built in the 19th century, this little pink house became a favorite hangout for Montmartre's artists in the early 1900s.
Next, you'll pass Au Lapin Agile, a legendary cabaret that's been around since the late 1800s. Picasso, Apollinaire, and Modigliani used to gather here, and Picasso even painted the place in 1905. It's still an active cabaret today, with French song and poetry nights held almost every evening.
Optional stop: you'll find the Musée de Montmartre nearby. It's a charming little museum with a lovely courtyard, tracing the neighborhood's artistic history through works by former residents like Renoir, Suzanne Valadon, and Maurice Utrillo.
Before heading to Sacré-Coeur, make a detour to Parc de la Turlure. This tiny hidden park gives you one of the most beautiful views of the basilica, and almost no visitors know about it. It's peaceful, just two minutes from Sacré-Coeur, and honestly one of my favorite spots in the whole city, I'd almost rather keep it to myself!
From there, head on to Sacré-Coeur. Entry to the basilica itself is free and you don't need to book ahead, though there can be a line depending on the time of day. If you'd like to climb up to the dome for a 360-degree view over Paris, that's a separate ticket (around 8 euros), bought on the spot, no reservation needed either. Just know: it's about 300 steps with no elevator.
After that, make your way to Place du Tertre. It's a lively square where local artists set up their easels, and plenty of them are genuinely talented. That said, it's extremely touristy, so I wouldn't recommend eating here, many tourist traps. It's fine for a quick coffee, though.
Keep wandering from here, popping into art galleries and small boutiques as you make your way back down the hill. And don't forget to turn around every so often, the views of Sacré-Coeur behind you are worth it.
Pick up your madeleines!
If you've booked my self-guided food tour, this is where you'll hit your first stop: a taste of one of France's most iconic little cakes. The kind that brings back childhood memories for a lot of French people. It makes for the perfect snack as you keep exploring. Just show your voucher to get yours.
Optional stop: The Musée de la Vie Romantique is close by too, if you have a little extra time, it's free, quick to visit, and the building itself feels like a small house tucked right in the middle of Paris.
AFTERNOON: LUNCH TIME & COVERED PASSAGES
From Montmartre, make your way down to the various Passages. Locals come here often for lunch, and you'll find both French and international spots tucked under the glass roofs.
Start with Passage Verdeau, built in 1847 as an extension of the passages Jouffroy and Panoramas. It's a little quieter than its neighbors, but that's part of the charm, today it's known for its antique dealers and curiosity shops, perfect for a slow browse.
Next comes Passage Jouffroy, built in 1846 and famous for being the first Parisian passage built entirely of metal and glass, complete with underfloor heating, a real novelty at the time!
Then Passage des Panoramas, the oldest covered passage in Paris, dating back to 1799. It's the busiest of the three for food today, packed with restaurants of every kind.
If you're after a French spot, I have a real soft spot for Les Invisibles. Their menu changes every month to spotlight a different French region and its specialties, it's excellent.
After lunch, walk through Passage Choiseul, then to the BnF Richelieu. It's a breathtaking library that's feel magical. I'm always amazed by its beauty. Definitely worth a short stop. Entry is free, including access to the main reading room, the Salle Ovale.
From there, continue on to Galerie Vivienne, another lovely passage to wander through.
Cross the Jardin du Palais Royal to see its famous striped columns, then finish your passage-hopping at Galerie Véro-Dodat, the last covered passage of the day.
LATE AFTERNOON
From here, the rest of the afternoon is yours. There's plenty nearby: walk past the Louvre, wander through the Jardin des Tuileries, or go shopping along Rue de Rivoli.
EVENING: CROSSING THE LEFT BANK
When you're ready, start making your way toward tonight's dinner, included in the tour. Cross one of the bridges over to the Left Bank, and if you have time, stop by Deyrolle, a wonderfully strange cabinet of curiosities that feels like a little natural history museum, full of fossils, insect specimens, and taxidermy.
I'd strongly recommend a stop at La Grande Épicerie de Paris, a beautiful gourmet food hall packed with French products. It's an absolute must, especially if you want to bring a taste of France home with you.
Diner at the soufflés restaurant
And then, it's time for a well-earned dinner. You'll discover a menu built entirely around soufflés, savory and sweet. Their vanilla soufflé with the chocolate sauce to pour on top is a must-try! Show your voucher once more, and bon appétit :)
NIGHT
If you're not too tired after dinner, take a digestive walk over to the Champ-de-Mars for the perfect happy ending: a night view of the Eiffel Tower to close out your day in beauty!
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Hope this itinerary inspired you!
See you soon,
Dana
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